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You decided you want to start a retinol, but are an absolute beginner and wondering how to best incorporate it in your routine? Or you have tried and failed a few times already due to your skin getting irritated?

 

 

Let’s talk about why you want retinol in your anti aging routine and why you need to be armed with knowledge before starting. The Do’s, the Don’ts and a list of actionable steps.

 

 

What is Retinol and why do you want it in your routine?

Retinol belongs to the group of retinoids and is a multi tasking ingredient tackling different signs of skin aging. I have a post on the different retinoids you can read here, so to keep it simple: Retinol and Retinal(dehyde) are available as over the counter cosmetics, while Tretinoin and (in most countries) Adapalene and Tazaroten are prescription used to treat skin conditions like acne. (More info: Acne basics and treatment explained)

All of them work by increasing cell turnover, reducing sebum production, stimulating collagen production and inhibiting melanocytes, so reducing hyperpigmentation. That means they singlehandedly target all signs of premature agin: dull skin, uneven skin tone, loss of elasticity and wrinkles.

While these effects in Tretinoin have been well studied for more than 40 years now, there is much less data on Retinol and Retinal available. That doesn’t mean they don’t work, it is safe to assume that they do when formulated correctly as they are converted into Retinoic Acid, the active form, in the skin. But they are considered cosmetics, not drugs.

 

 

Which retinoid is best for beginners?

To get that straight: If you want to treat cystic or severe acne, you should opt for a prescription so you get the benefits of medication as well your doctors guidance. But if you want to treat signs of aging, I recommend starting with an over the counter one, so either a Retinol or a Retinal.

Now Retinal needs one less conversion step to reach the active form than Retinol, and that often is translated to “it is stronger in effect”, but the effect of a skincare products depends much less on an individual ingredient or even the overall concentration, but more on the general formulation.

My advice for a beginner would be to look at brands they like to use and that work for their skin and see if they have a retinol or retinal product in their line up, and if they do, pick the lowest concentration available. If it is disclosed, not all brands do that, and even if they do it can sometimes be quite misleading.

Only pitfall to look out for is that the brand really uses either retinol or retinal and not a Retinolester, as I am not really convinced they do much for the skin.

If you have several options, you can also take the texture into consideration. If your skin is on the dry side, a cream with moisturizing ingredients is probably better suited for you, if your skin is very oily, a serum or gel formula might be a better fit.

In summary: Look at brands you like, check if they have a Retinol or Retinal in their lineup and if they do, pick the one with the lowest concentration. The concentration usually ranges from 0,3% retinol up to 1% Retinol, but again that only is one factor influencing strength.

Oh, and don’t fall for products on Amazon claiming to have more than 1% of Retinol – they don’t. They usually either use a Retinolester, Bakuchiol or different forms of ingredients that they lump together in one percentage. They are not worth your money.

 

 

 

How do I incorporate retinol in my routine?

If you have never used a retinol before, I recommend checking your existing routine for potentially irritating ingredients first and stripping it back to basics. That means for the first weeks of starting to use retinol, stop using your Vitamin C (if it is L-Ascorbic Acid and comes with a low pH, most derivatives are fine to use), stop physical or chemical exfoliants and things like Benzoyl Peroxide. The exception: If there is anything you use because you have a prescription for it, always talk to your prescribing doctor before making any changes! (More info: How to use Tretinoin with minimal irritation)

You don’t have to stop them forever, just for the first few weeks until your have fully incorporated your retinol into your routine.

Next thing you do is get your calendar – I don’t care if you go digital or paper here – and pick two nights that you want to use your product, for example Tuesday and Friday. Stick to that plan for two weeks and at the end of week two, look at your skin:

No signs of irritation? Great, you add another night, maybe doing Monday, Wednesday and Saturday from now on.

Some irritation? You keep going with two nights a week for two more weeks and then check again, sticking with the two nights as long as there is irritation.

If there is a lot of side effects – I will get into them in a bit – you stop for a week or until the side effects are gone and then start again with one night a week.

So every two weeks you check in with your skin and depending on your findings you either add a night, stick with the schedule or fall back on the level you were in before, until you reach at least five nights a week, ideally seven.

Why night time? Retinol as an ingredient is photosensitive, meaning it degrades in UV light. That doesn’t mean it will do the same once formulated into a product, but to be safe using it at night is the best approach. If the brand tells you it can be used in the mornings as well, trust them and see where it best fits your routine, but remember: once a day is enough, no need to use it twice.

And; Use it on clean, dry skin, so after cleansing and after letting your skin dry completely.

 

 

How do I proceed when I have fully incorporated retinol in my routine?

Once you reached 5-7 days without irritation, you have different options on how to proceed. You can either leave it at that frequency and concentration and reintroduce the things in your routine you paused before, like your Vitamin C or – only if needed! – your exfoliants. (More info: Exfoliation on retinoids – the tips)

Or you decide you want to increase the concentration and start building that up, which essentially follows the same plan you followed before, just that now you switch one night of your regular concentration for the stronger one, than two, than three until you have fully replaced your initial concentration. Again, always reevaluating your skin after two weeks for irritation.

Two pitfalls here though: You can only safely compare the concentrations from the same brand. A 0,3% from one brand might be stronger and more irritating then the 0.5% from another one, simply due to differences in the formulation, so if you switch brands, don’t be surprised if you suddenly tolerate way less than you did before.

The second one is: It isn’t about the highest concentration available. The goal is not to reach the end of an escalating line of product strength or to get to prescription as quickly as possible. Prescription is for treating skin conditions, for well aging a lower concentration used daily and without side effects is much better than a higher strength you can only use occasionally because it irritates your skin. Yes, it takes longer to see results, but skincare for well aging is a marathon, not a sprint – daily movement has better confounding benefits than overtraining on one day and then being sore for the rest of the week! You’ll keep your skin until the end of your days – who cares if it takes a month longer for it to look its best.

 

 

How much retinol do you need to apply to your face?

Now that we have established that more isn’t more when it comes to strength, let’s talk about the actual amount of product you need to apply. For retinol, you should avoid doing a thick layer and use a thin layer instead – again more product equals more irritation, not more results here. Of course the lower the strength the more forgiving it is, but to be safe, I recommend the following approach:

Squeeze out a pea size amount to, if that is easier to visualize, use a line that reaches half of your finger digit. Dot that on your face avoiding the eye area, the nasolabial fold and the area right around your mouth and than start spreading it over your face. I always apply in an outward motion and then use the leftovers to take it on this central area of my face. The reason I recommend doing it this way is that the sun around the eyes and on your lips is quite thin, so much more prone to irritation, and that depending on the depth of your lines product could pool in there, increasing the risk of irritation.

I know it doesn’t feel like applying enough, but trust me on that: It is enough and can stay that way forever.

 

 

What are the side effects of retinol?

I have mentioned retinol side effects and irritation a few times already, so let’s talk a little bit about what they actually are. Retinoids increase cell turnover, which can manifest in your skin starting to get flaky. They also reduce sebum production, which can lead to your skin getting drier. And overall their effect on the skin can lead to irritation and inflammation when introduced to quickly, showing up as redness, stinging and your skin reacting sensitive to products that were perfectly fine before. (More info: Signs of a damaged skin barrier)

The stronger the product, the higher the chance of side effects, meaning that when you use over the counter at a lower concentration and with a plan like the one I gave you, chances are there will be no or only minimal side effects. Which is a good thing, you want to avoid your skin getting inflamed. No side effects does not mean it isn’t working: The goal is to build up your tolerance while never experiencing side effects.

But if they are there, focus on gentle cleansing, a moisturizer with barrier supporting ingredients and adjust your frequency according to the plan. Don’t simply push through. (More info: 5 steps to take if your skin barrier is damaged)

 

 

What about purging?

You probably have heard about purging as something that needs to be expected when using retinol, but I can tell you it is much less common than social media will make you believe, and quite unlikely with over the counter retinol introduced slowly. I have a whole blogpost dedicated to purging here if you want to lear more, but unless you are starting straight with prescription to treat your acne, you probably don’t need to worry.

 

 

How long will it take to see results?

A common mistake I see is people giving up on retinol way too quickly, either because of irritation or because they feel it isn’t working for them.

If the latter is you, let me tell you: Patience is key here! As someone that lacks patience in almost every aspect of their daily life, I understand how difficult that is, but to see results with your retinol, you will need to wait at least 12 weeks, and even then you’ll need proper before and after pictures in consistent lighting to notice them.

The effects of retinol on your skin are slow, but mighty over the years and they will keep on giving, making your skin look better year after year – within reasonable expectation of course. To reverse age you will have to stick to more drastic measures like a surgical intervention or bathing in the blood of virgins, whatever is more your style.

 

 

What can I use alongside my retinol?

There are a few ingredients you should avoid when starting a retinol, and they can easily be summarized as “potentially irritating ingredients”. Think Benzoylperoxide, Ascorbic Acid and chemical exfoliants like AHAs. Once you have adapted to your retinol, you can of course reintroduce them slowly and if needed – my skin needs way less exfoliation since I started using a retinol. Still I would spread them out to different parts of your routine, like the Vitamin C to the mornings and the retinol to the evening.

Every skin is different here, so feel free to experiment. (More info: What can I combine with my retinol?)

Similarly there are ingredients that work exceptionally well with retinol, first and foremost Niacinamide that reduces the risk of irritation. (More info: The benefits of Niacinamide in your skincare explained)

And of course sunscreen – in parts because your skin gets a little more sensitive to the sun when on retinol, but mostly because UV exposure is the main driving factor for skin aging and there is absolutely no point in using a retinol to tackle signs of aging without protecting your skin in the first place. (More info: Is it safe to use Retinol in summer)

As for the rest, anything that works well for you in calming the skin is also a good fit, think Ceramides, Centella Asiatica Extract or for some Azelaic Acid. Again, see what works best for your individual skin. (More info: The benefits of Ceramides in your skincare explained, The benefits of Centella Asiatica in your skincare explained and The benefits of Azelaic Acid in your skincare explained)

 

 

What if my skin is really sensitive/ I have rosacea/ I have an allergy/ simply can’t use retinol?

If you get irritation despite following the plan I gave you, there are a few more things you can do: First double check your routine if you overlooked something potentially irritating. The wash cloth you use to cleanse your skin and that is a physical exfoliant is a common culprit.

Then try if adding a layer of basic moisturizer before applying your retinol as buffer will give you relief.

Experiment with a different brand or a different texture, one with a more moisturizing base for example.

And if none of that works, don’t fret. Yes, retinol is an amazing multitasker to tackle signs of aging. But you can look absolutely stunning even if you never used a retinoid in your life. It isn’t the end all be all of skincare, even though some people, myself included, sometimes act as if it is. Protect your skin from the sun and moisturize, that really is the foundation of it all, and then have fun with all the other stuff on the market. Your life and your skincare are meant to be fun, not stress.

 

5 steps to incorporate Retinol in your routine stress-free

1. Choose the Right Retinol: Pick a low concentration retinol (0.3%-0.5%) or retinal from a brand you trust. Start low, you can always build up over time. If your skin is dry, opt for a cream-based retinol; for oily skin, choose a serum or gel.
2. Prep Your Routine: Simplify your routine before starting. Remove any potentially irritating ingredients like Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid), exfoliants, or Benzoyl Peroxide for the first few weeks.
3. Introduce Retinol Slowly: Start using it twice a week, like on Tuesday and Friday, and check your skin after two weeks. If there’s no irritation, add another night. Stick with two nights per week if your skin is mildly irritated, and reduce the frequency if there is a lot of irritation.
4. Apply the Right Amount: Use a pea-sized amount for your whole face, avoiding sensitive areas like the eyes and lips. More product won’t yield faster results, but more irritation.
5. Be Patient and Protect Your Skin: Results take at least 12 weeks, so be patient. Use sunscreen every morning to protect your skin and prevent further damage, as retinol makes your skin more sensitive to the sun.

 

 

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